A5 30# Blade
The 30# Blade — 0.5 mm, the Closest Cut on the A5 Platform
The 30# is the last stop before a blade stops being a grooming tool and becomes a surgical instrument. It leaves half a millimetre of coat — 1/50 inch — on skin that is still warm and still moving. That makes it the blade for faces, ears, pads, sanitary areas and preparation for a vet, and the wrong blade for almost every other job. This page sets out what 0.5 mm actually looks like, why the finest blade carries the biggest number, and what has to change in your technique to run one without leaving a burn.
30# A5 blade pair: 0.5 mm (1/50″) cutting height, full-tooth stainless steel comb, stainless steel or ceramic cutter.
Half a millimetre, in terms you can picture
Numbers on a blade chart are easy to read and hard to feel. The 30# leaves 0.5 mm of coat, which is less than the thickness of a credit card and roughly five to eight human hairs laid side by side. On a clipped animal that does not read as a short coat; it reads as skin with a shadow on it.
| Reference | Thickness |
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| Human hair (single strand) | About 0.06–0.10 mm |
| Sheet of office paper | About 0.10 mm |
| Coat left by the 30# | 0.50 mm (1/50″) |
| Credit card | About 0.76 mm |
| Coat left by the 15# | 1.2 mm (3/64″) |
| Coat left by the 10# | 1.5 mm (1/16″) |
Two things follow from that. First, there is no coat left to protect the skin from the blade, the sun or the cold. Second, the blade has almost no fibre to carry heat away, so the comb warms faster than it does at any other setting. Both facts drive every technique note on this page.
The 0.5 mm figure is nominal: it is the gap between the comb teeth and the skin when the blade is held flat. Press the head down, run a worn or bent comb, or fit a blade to a slack tension spring and the real cut will be shorter than the number on the packet.
Why the bigger number is the shorter cut
New buyers expect the opposite. A 30# sounds like it should leave more coat than a 10#, and on the shelf the two blades look almost identical. The A5 numbering is a gauge, not a measurement: it grew out of the old practice of numbering finishes, and the higher the number, the closer the finish. It says nothing about the physical size of the blade, the number of teeth, or the width of the comb.
| Part of the code | What it controls |
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| Number (30) | Cutting height. 30 = 0.5 mm (1/50″). Higher number, shorter coat: 10# leaves 1.5 mm, 15# leaves 1.2 mm, 30# leaves 0.5 mm. |
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| Hash (#) | Standard shorthand for a numbered blade. 30# and 30 are the same blade. |
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| Letter F (as in 7F) | Full-tooth comb — the standard pattern for a clean, even finish. The 30# is a full-tooth blade. |
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| Letter W (as in 7FW) | Wide format: same cutting height on a wider comb and cutter, about a third more cutting surface per pass. Wide format is used for bulk work, not for close detail. |
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Published charts differ by a hundredth of an inch between brands, and that is normal. What does not change is the order of the ladder: a 30# is always the close blade, and a 10# is always the everyday one.
Where 0.5 mm sits on the A5 ladder
An A5 range is a sequence of cutting heights, and each step down removes a cushion of coat that the next blade has to work without. Between the 15# and the 30# that cushion is 0.7 mm — small on paper, decisive in the hand.
| Blade | Cutting height | Typical job |
|---|
| 3F / 3FW | 13 mm | First pass on a heavy winter coat |
| 4F / 4FW | 9.5 mm | Full body clips that keep some cover |
| 5F / 5FW | 6.3 mm | Blanket, hunter and trace clips |
| 7F / 7FW | 3.2 mm | Close body work and blending |
| 9# | 2 mm | Close finishing with a little more cover |
| 10# | 1.5 mm (1/16″) | The standard working blade on most A5 clippers |
| 15# | 1.2 mm (3/64″) | Faces, legs, lines and show finishing |
| 30# (this blade) | 0.5 mm (1/50″) | Faces, ears, pads, sanitary areas, patterns and surgical prep |
| 40# and finer | 0.25 mm and below | Surgical and veterinary work; not a general grooming blade |
The working rule is simple: a 30# is not a smaller version of a 10#. It is a different class of tool, used after the body is finished, on areas where the shape of the animal matters more than the length of the coat.
What a 30# is actually for
At 0.5 mm the blade is cutting against skin, so the jobs it suits are the ones where skin is meant to be visible and the outline has to be sharp. It is a detail and preparation blade, not a body blade.
| Area | Why the 30# works there |
|---|
| Dog faces, muzzles and cheeks | Poodle, terrier and schnauzer faces need a clean cheek and a tight muzzle. A 30# gives the flat, close finish that a 10# leaves stubbly. |
| Poodle feet and paw pads | Hair between the pads has to go completely. The narrow full-tooth comb reaches into the gap without catching the webbing. |
| Sanitary and hygiene clips | Close, clean work around the genital area and inside the rear — areas where any left length traps moisture and dirt. |
| Ears and ear flaps | Thin skin and fine hair; a 30# finishes the flap cleanly. Never inside the ear canal. |
| Horse face, muzzle and ears | Whiskers, jawline, the hollow under the eye and the inside of the ear flap. The standard-width blade follows the head without rocking. |
| Bridle path and clip lines | Crisp edges where the boundary between clipped and unclipped coat has to read as a line, not a fade. |
| Veterinary and wound prep | Clipping a surgical site, prepping a wound or clearing hair before a scan. Close enough for a clean field without going to a 40#. |
| Show patterns | Terrier legs, poodle rosettes and tight pattern work where a longer blade would blur the outline. |
Where it does not belong: a full body clip of any kind, a matted or muddy coat, puppies and kittens, animals with thin pink skin or a sunburned back, and any animal that has reacted to a close blade before. A 30# leaves nothing to protect the skin, and the difference between a sharp finish and a clipper burn is usually technique, not the blade.
What changes when you step down from a 15#
Groomers who move from a 15# to a 30# notice the same four things, in the same order: it feeds slower, it heats faster, it shows every mistake, and it punishes a dull cutter. None of that is a fault in the blade; it is what 0.5 mm does.
- No cushion. A 15# still has 1.2 mm of coat to ride on. A 30# has 0.5 mm, which is thinner than the skin's own give. The comb must sit flat, because there is no fibre to hide a tilted corner.
- Slower feed. The fine tooth pitch takes a smaller bite per stroke. Pushing harder does not make it cut faster; it loads the teeth, builds heat and leaves tram lines. Let the blade work at its own rate and overlap each pass by about a third.
- Heat arrives sooner. Less coat means less air movement and more direct contact. On a 30# the blade can go from comfortable to too hot in a couple of minutes; check it on the back of your hand and cool it before it reaches skin again.
- Every error is visible. Scars, moles, uneven pressure and a blunt tooth all show at 0.5 mm. That is an advantage on a show pattern and a warning on an animal with sensitive skin.
- Cutter quality matters more. A dull 15# still cuts, reluctantly. A dull 30# pulls hair and drags skin. Replace or sharpen the cutter instead of adding pressure.
- Clean, dry coat only. A grain of sand between comb and skin at this height is a scratch. Wash, dry and brush out first; clip out mats with a coarser blade before a 30# goes anywhere near them.
How the A5 pair sets the length
An A5 blade is two parts working as one gauge. The lower comb is a row of teeth with a fixed height: it lifts the coat and holds the skin away from the cutting edge. The upper cutter oscillates across the comb and slices whatever hair stands above it. The cutter never touches the skin — the comb decides the length, and the cutter only decides how cleanly it is cut.
- The comb teeth enter the coat and comb it straight.
- The height of the comb teeth sets how much hair is left standing above the cutting plane — 0.5 mm on a 30#.
- The cutter sweeps sideways at high speed and severs the hair held by the comb.
- The blade moves forward; the next row of teeth repeats the cut.
This is why a bent, worn or mismatched comb changes the cut even when the cutter is sharp, and why a 30# comb cannot be paired with a 15# cutter. The two parts are matched in profile and in height.
The cutter choice: ceramic or stainless steel
Every 30# pair ships with a stainless steel comb. The upper cutter is the only specification decision, and on this blade it matters more than on a coarser one, because heat is the main risk.
| Ceramic cutter | Runs cooler, keeps its edge longer in clean coat, and is the usual choice for faces, sanitary work and long show-prep sessions. Brittle: a drop on concrete or a run through a dirty coat can chip the edge. |
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| Stainless steel cutter | Tougher in coarse, sandy or yard conditions, cheaper to replace and more forgiving of knocks. Runs warmer, which is noticeable on close work over large areas. |
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| How to choose | Clean coat, sensitive skin and long sessions: ceramic. Working yard, coarse coat, mixed conditions or lowest running cost: stainless steel. Many kits carry both and swap depending on the animal. |
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| Why the pair matters | A cutter and comb from different formats will not tension or cut correctly. Both parts are matched in profile as well as in length. |
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The 30# cutter options: stainless steel for durability and cost, ceramic for cooler running in clean coat.
Specifications
| Blade system | A5 detachable, two-piece (comb + cutter), full tooth |
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| Model | 30# |
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| Cutting height | 0.5 mm (1/50″) |
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| Format | Standard width, full-tooth comb |
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| Zone | Closest cut on the A5 platform; detail and surgical prep |
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| Supplied as | One pair: 1 upper cutter + 1 lower comb, packed together |
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| Lower comb | Full-tooth stainless steel, ground and hardened to the 0.5 mm setting |
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| Upper cutter options | Stainless steel or ceramic, both matched to the 30# comb |
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| Compatibility | Andis, Oster, Wahl and Heiniger A5 clipper heads |
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| Typical use | Faces, ears, pads, sanitary areas, bridle paths, patterns and surgical prep |
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| Packaging | 100 pcs / 1 carton; carton size 38×23×27 cm; N.W./G.W. 8.5/9.5 kg |
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Fits the A5 clipper head
The blade is machined to A5 dimensions — hinge slot, mounting rail, cutter fork and tension point — so it seats on the heads the main brands have supported for years:
- Andis: AGC, AGC2, UltraEdge and Super 2-Speed
- Oster: A5, Golden A5 and Turbo A5
- Wahl: KM2, KM5, KM10 and Show Pro
- Heiniger: A5-compatible models such as Saphir
If the head takes any other A5 blade, it will take this one. Livestock shears and the Oster 76 series are a different system and are not compatible.
Running a 30# without leaving a burn
Almost every complaint about a 30# blade is really a complaint about heat or pressure. Both are controllable.
- Start with a clean, dry, brushed-out coat. Dirt on the comb is the fastest way to blunt a cutter and scratch skin.
- Check the head tension. A slack spring lets the cutter lift and chatter; a freshly sharpened pair may need a quarter turn.
- Hold the blade flat. At 0.5 mm a tilted comb digs a corner in immediately. Let the blade follow the body, do not steer it with your wrist.
- Use almost no pressure. The weight of the clipper is enough. Pressure adds heat, not cutting speed.
- Keep the blade moving. A stationary blade heats one spot of skin. Short, overlapping passes, about a third of the blade width.
- Oil every ten minutes of running time. A drop across the cutter teeth and the rail, then run for a few seconds to spread it.
- Cool before it feels hot. Touch the blade to the back of your hand. If it is more than comfortably warm, stop and let it cool or swap to a second blade.
- Patch-test sensitive animals. One short pass on the inside of a leg, then wait a minute to see how the skin reacts.
- Stop if the blade pulls. Pulling means a dull cutter. Sharpen or replace it; do not compensate with pressure.
A 30# is not the blade to learn close work on. If you are moving down from a 10# or 15#, practise on faces and pads first, on a calm animal, with a clean coat, and keep a second cool blade within reach.
Blade care and sharpening
The finer the tooth pitch, the less room there is for error in sharpening. A 30# cutter has small, closely spaced teeth that must stay perfectly flat and evenly set; a few passes on a home stone will round the tips and turn a sharp blade into one that pulls. Send 30# blades to a sharpening service that works to A5 profiles, and expect the comb to need attention less often than the cutter. Store the pair dry, with the cutter oiled, and keep ceramic cutters in their own case or blister so they are not knocked against other blades in a drawer. Spare cutters, combs and springs are available separately so a blade can be rebuilt rather than replaced.
The FOLK blade programme
The 30# is the fine end of a blade range built around the three head systems distributors meet most often: the A5 platform, the A-Series for Lister-type clippers and the H-Series for Heiniger-type clippers. The A5 line runs from the long 3F and 3FW at 13 mm down through 4F, 5F, 7F, 9#, 10# and 15# to this 30#, with 40# above it for veterinary work. That lets a dealer supply a complete clipping ladder — bulk, body, finish and close prep — from one supplier instead of mixing formats and brands.
The A5 range. Standards and wide formats side by side, from the 13 mm 3F and 3FW down to the 0.5 mm 30#.
For the step between this blade and a 10#, see the 15# A5 horse clipper blade at 1.2 mm.
Wholesale, OEM and packaging
Ningbo FOLK Tools is an animal clipper factory in Yuyao, Zhejiang, producing electric sheep shears, horse clippers, livestock clippers, replacement blades and blower dryers. The 30# is ground and hardened in our own plant, packed 100 pairs to a carton, and can be supplied with your logo on the blade, your own blister card or as a bulk carton for distributors who pack locally. Cutters, combs, springs and other spare parts ship separately so grooming retailers can support after-sales properly.
| Minimum order | 100 pcs (each piece is one matched pair of cutter + comb) |
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| Packaging | 100 pcs / 1 carton; 38×23×27 cm; N.W./G.W. 8.5/9.5 kg |
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| Delivery time | 7–15 days for stock blades; artwork approval and printing add time for private label |
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| Supply ability | 50,000 pcs per month |
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| Payment terms | T/T, L/C, Western Union |
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| Certification | ISO, BSCI, GS, CE, CB, ROHS, UL, ETL |
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Frequently asked questions
Is a 30# finer than a 10#?
Yes. The 30# leaves 0.5 mm (1/50″) and the 10# leaves 1.5 mm (1/16″), so the 30# removes about two thirds of the coat the 10# would leave.
What is a 30# blade used for?
Close detail and preparation: dog faces and poodle feet, pads, sanitary areas, ear flaps, horse faces and muzzles, bridle paths, show patterns and surgical or wound prep. Not body clipping.
Is the 30# the same as a surgical blade?
It is the blade most clinics use for close prep, but true surgical blades go finer — a 40# leaves 0.25 mm and a 50# less again. The 30# is the closest blade in a normal grooming kit, not the closest blade made.
Can I clip a whole horse or dog with a 30#?
No. At 0.5 mm there is no coat left to protect the skin, the blade overheats quickly and the finish shows every error. Take the body down with a 3F, 4F, 5F or 10# and use the 30# only on the areas listed above.
Why does my 30# get hot so fast?
It cuts closest, so there is more contact with skin and less coat to carry heat away, and the fine teeth need more strokes per area. Oil every ten minutes, keep the blade moving, use light pressure and swap to a cool blade rather than pushing on.
What is the difference between a 30# and a 40#?
0.5 mm against 0.25 mm. The 40# is a veterinary and surgical blade: it leaves almost nothing and is unforgiving on skin. Most grooming work stops at the 30#.
Ceramic or stainless steel cutter for the 30#?
Ceramic for clean coat, sensitive skin and long sessions, because it runs cooler. Stainless steel for coarse or dirty coat, yard conditions and the lowest replacement cost. Both fit the same 30# comb.
Will it fit my clipper?
If the clipper uses the A5 detachable system, yes: Andis AGC series, Oster A5 series, Wahl KM series and A5-compatible Heiniger models. The Oster 76 series and livestock shears are not A5.
Can I sharpen a 30# blade myself?
Not reliably. The teeth are small and closely pitched, and hand honing rounds the tips and changes the set. Use a sharpening service that works to A5 profiles; replacing the cutter is often the cheaper option.
What is in the box?
One matched pair: a full-tooth stainless steel 30# comb and one upper cutter in stainless steel or ceramic, packed together as a single piece.
Can I use it on a cat?
Only with care. Cat skin is thin and tears easily, and a 30# leaves no protective coat. Many groomers stop at a 10# or 15# on cats; close work on a cat is best done under veterinary supervision.
Can I order private-label packaging?
Yes. Logo on the blade, a custom blister card and a bulk carton are available. Minimum order is 100 pcs, with artwork approval before production.
Add the closest cut to the range
Ask Ningbo FOLK Tools for a sample, the full A5 length chart and a wholesale quotation for the 30# 0.5 mm pair — stainless steel comb, your choice of ceramic or stainless steel cutter, and your own branding.
Contact Ningbo FOLK Tools →
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