A5 15# Blade
The 15# Blade — 1.2 mm, Three-Tenths Below a 10#
The 15# is the blade that turns a good clip into a sharp one. It leaves 1.2 mm of coat — 3/64 inch — against the 1.5 mm of the 10#. Three-tenths of a millimetre sounds like nothing until you see it on a clipped horse: the coat reads flatter, the lines read cleaner, and the skin shows through enough that every pass has to be placed properly. It is not a body blade and it is not a surgical blade. It is the close-finishing blade between the two, and this page explains exactly where it belongs.
15# A5 blade pair: 1.2 mm (3/64″) cutting height, full-tooth stainless steel comb, stainless steel or ceramic cutter.
How to read the code on an A5 blade
A5 blade codes carry two separate pieces of information, and buyers routinely read one as the other. The number sets the cutting height. The letters after it set the tooth format and the width. Nothing in the code refers to the physical size of the blade or to the number of teeth on the cutter.
| Part of the code | What it controls |
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| Number (15) | Cutting height — how much coat is left standing on the horse. 15 = 1.2 mm (3/64″). The higher the number, the closer the cut. |
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| Hash (#) | Standard notation for a numbered blade. The 15# and the 15 are the same blade; the hash has no technical meaning of its own. |
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| Letter F (as in 7F) | Finish / full-tooth comb. The standard tooth pattern for a clean finish, as opposed to a skip-tooth or blending pattern. |
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| Letter W (as in 7FW, 10W) | Wide format. The same cutting height on a wider comb and cutter, roughly a third more cutting surface per pass. |
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One detail that matters in a catalogue: cutting heights are nominal figures measured with the comb held flat against the skin. Published charts differ slightly between brands, and a blade used with pressure, a worn comb or a badly tensioned head will cut shorter than its number suggests. The 15# is a 1.2 mm blade in the standard A5 charts, not a 1.5 mm blade with a different label.
Where 1.2 mm sits in the A5 range
The A5 range is a ladder of cutting heights, not a collection of unrelated blades. Each step changes how much coat is left and, just as importantly, what the blade is good at. The 15# is one step below the 10#, in the narrow band between everyday clipping and true close work.
| Blade | Cutting height | Typical job |
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| 3F / 3FW | 13 mm | Long clips and the first pass on a heavy winter coat |
| 4F / 4FW | 9.5 mm | Full body clips on horses that keep some coat |
| 5F / 5FW | 6.3 mm | Blanket, hunter and trace clips |
| 7F / 7FW | 3.2 mm | Close trimming and blending a body pass |
| 9# | 2 mm | Close finishing with a little more cover than a 10# |
| 10# | 1.5 mm (1/16″) | The standard working and show-clip blade fitted to most A5 clippers |
| 15# (this blade) | 1.2 mm (3/64″) | Close finishing, faces, legs, lines, patterns and show detail |
| 30# and finer | Below 1 mm | Surgical prep, paw pads and the closest work — a different specialist step |
The practical rule professional clippers work to: bulk with a long blade, shape with a 10#, finish with a 15#. The 15# is what you reach for after the body is already even, not what you use to take a winter coat off.
What the 15# is actually for
At 1.2 mm the blade is cutting close enough that the skin is part of the job. That makes it the right tool for small areas that need to look sharp, and the wrong tool for long passes over large panels of coat.
| Area | Why the 15# works there |
|---|
| Face, muzzle, ears and jaw | Tight contours where a 10# leaves visible stubble. The narrower standard-width blade follows the shape of the head without rocking. |
| Bridle path and hogged mane | Crisp, straight edges. The closer cut makes the boundary between clipped and unclipped coat read as a line rather than a fade. |
| Legs and feathering | Close, tidy legs for the show ring. Work slowly over bone and tendon; the blade should follow the leg, not press into it. |
| Show clip finishing | The final pass over a body already taken down with a 10#, where the aim is an even, flat finish rather than removal of length. |
| Trace, hunter and blanket lines | Sharpening the edge of a clip line so the shape of the clip stays legible under a saddle or rug. |
| Patterns and quarter marks | Fine detail work where a longer blade would blur the pattern. |
| Pre-show tidy-ups | Heads, ears and the area under the jaw on a horse that is already body-clipped. |
Where it does not belong: the first pass on a full winter coat, matted or muddy coat, and any horse with thin, pink or sensitive skin that reacts to a close blade. It is also not a surgical blade — veterinary close prep generally goes finer, to a 30# or 40#, and that is a different purchase.
What three-tenths of a millimetre changes in the hand
The difference between a 10# and a 15# is small on paper and obvious in use. A 15# feeds differently, heats differently and shows mistakes differently. Buyers who expect it to behave like a 10# are the ones who complain that it pulls or burns.
- Slower feed. The finer tooth pitch takes smaller bites. Pushing the clipper faster does not speed the job up; it loads the blade, heats it and leaves a washboard finish. Let the blade cut at its own rate.
- Cleaner coat required. At 1.2 mm a grain of sand or a patch of dried mud goes straight between comb and skin. The coat should be washed, dried and brushed out before a 15# goes on it.
- Less pressure, flatter blade. The comb has to sit flat. Tilting the blade at this height digs a corner in and produces a line that cannot be blended out.
- More visible skin. A 15# leaves the coat thin enough that pink skin, scars and unevenness show. That is an advantage on a show horse and a reason to use a 10# on a horse with sensitive skin.
- Heat builds faster. Closer cutting means more contact and less air movement through the coat. Oil every ten minutes of running time, brush out the comb, and let the blade cool before refitting it.
- Sharpness matters more. A dull 10# still cuts, reluctantly. A dull 15# pulls the coat, which is uncomfortable for the horse and leaves an uneven finish. Replace or sharpen the cutter rather than compensating with pressure.
Two pieces, sold as one pair
An A5 blade is not a single part. It is a matched pair: the lower comb guides the hair and fixes the cutting height, and the upper cutter oscillates across it and does the cutting. On the 15# the comb is stainless steel on every pair, ground and hardened to hold the 1.2 mm setting. The cutter is the choice.
| Lower comb | Full-tooth stainless steel at 1.2 mm — standard on every pair, not an option |
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| Upper cutter — stainless steel | The toughest edge and the lowest replacement cost. Best in coarse, thick or dusty coat where a ceramic edge would chip or wear quickly. |
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| Upper cutter — ceramic | Runs cooler and holds its edge longer in clean coat. The sensible choice for long show-prep sessions and for horses that are sensitive to heat. |
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| Why the pair matters | A cutter and comb from different formats will not tension or cut correctly. The two parts are matched in profile as well as in length. |
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The 15# cutter options: stainless steel for durability and cost, ceramic for cooler running in clean coat.
Ceramic or stainless steel cutter?
This is the only real specification decision on the 15# pair, and it is a trade-off rather than a upgrade path. Both cutters are made to the same profile and fit the same comb; what changes is how they handle heat and abuse.
| Ceramic cutter | Cooler in long sessions, keeps its edge longer in clean coat, preferred for show prep and thin-skinned horses. Brittle: dropped on concrete or run through a dirty coat, it can chip. |
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| Stainless steel cutter | More forgiving of coarse coat, sand and yard conditions, and cheaper to replace. Runs warmer than ceramic, which shows up on long close passes. |
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| How to choose | Clean show coat and long sessions: ceramic. Working yard, coarse coat, mixed conditions or lowest running cost: stainless steel. Many professional kits carry both. |
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Whichever cutter is fitted, the maintenance is the same: brush the comb out after every horse, oil the blade every ten minutes of running, and store the pair dry. Ceramic cutters in particular should not be knocked against a sink or dropped on a yard floor.
Specifications
| Blade system | A5 detachable, two-piece (comb + cutter), full tooth |
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| Model | 15# |
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| Cutting height | 1.2 mm (3/64″) |
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| Format | Standard width, full-tooth comb |
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| Zone | Close-finishing and detail work below the 10# |
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| Supplied as | One pair: 1 upper cutter + 1 lower comb, packed together |
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| Lower comb | Full-tooth stainless steel, matched to the 1.2 mm setting |
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| Upper cutter options | Stainless steel or ceramic, both matched to the 15# comb |
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| Compatibility | Andis, Oster, Wahl and Heiniger A5 clipper heads |
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| Typical use | Face, ears, muzzle, legs, bridle path, clip lines, patterns and show finishing |
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| Packaging | 100 pcs / 1 carton; carton size 38×23×27 cm; N.W./G.W. 6.5/7.5 kg |
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Fits the A5 clipper head
The blade is machined to A5 dimensions — hinge slot, mounting rail, cutter fork and tension point — so it seats on the heads the main brands have supported for years:
- Andis: AGC, AGC2, UltraEdge and Super 2-Speed
- Oster: A5, Golden A5 and Turbo A5
- Wahl: KM2, KM5, KM10 and Show Pro
- Heiniger: A5-compatible models such as Saphir
A 15# cuts closer than a 10# and therefore removes less coat per stroke, so it is not a blade to rush. Check the head tension before fitting a freshly sharpened pair, keep the coat clean and dry, hold the blade flat, and overlap each pass by about a third of its width. If the blade starts to feel hot on the back of the hand, stop and let it cool rather than pushing on — heat is what produces clipper burn at this cutting height. Sample oil sachets can be packed with the blades on request.
The FOLK blade programme
The 15# is one blade in a range built for the three head systems distributors meet most often: the A5 platform, the A-Series for Lister-type clippers and the H-Series for Heiniger-type clippers. The A5 line runs from the long 3F and 3FW at 13 mm down through 4F, 5F, 7F, 9# and 10# to this 15#, so a dealer can supply a complete clipping ladder from one supplier rather than mixing brands and formats.
The A5 range. Standards and wide formats side by side, from the 13 mm 3F and 3FW down to the 1.2 mm 15#.
Wholesale, OEM and packaging
Ningbo FOLK Tools is a professional animal clipper factory in Yuyao, Zhejiang, producing electric sheep shears, horse clippers, livestock clippers, replacement blades and blower dryers. The 15# is ground and hardened in our own plant, packed 100 pcs to a carton, and can be supplied with your logo on the blade, your own blister card or as a bulk carton for distributors who pack locally. Cutters, combs, springs and other spare parts ship separately so equine grooming retailers can support after-sales properly.
| Minimum order | 100 pcs (each piece is one matched pair of cutter + comb) |
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| Packaging | 100 pcs / 1 carton; 38×23×27 cm; N.W./G.W. 6.5/7.5 kg |
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| Delivery time | 7–15 days for stock blades; artwork approval and printing add time for private label |
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| Supply ability | 50,000 pcs per month |
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| Payment terms | T/T, L/C, Western Union |
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| Certification | ISO, BSCI, GS, CE, CB, ROHS, UL, ETL |
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Frequently asked questions
Is a 15# shorter than a 10#?
Yes. The 15# leaves 1.2 mm (3/64″) and the 10# leaves 1.5 mm (1/16″). The 15# is the closer of the two by 0.3 mm, roughly the thickness of a business card.
What does 3/64 inch mean in practice?
It is the nominal length of coat left standing when the comb runs flat on the skin. On a clean show coat it reads as a tight, flat finish with the skin visible; on a thin-skinned horse it reads as very close indeed.
Can I clip a whole horse with a 15#?
Not as a first pass. Take the coat down with a 3F, 4F or 5F depending on the clip, even it with a 10#, then finish with the 15# where a closer, sharper result is wanted. Running a 15# over a full winter coat is slow, hot work and hard on the blade.
Which blade should I use before the 15#?
For most show clips: 5F or 4F for bulk, 10# for the main body, 15# for close finishing and detail. On a horse that is already clipped, the 10# alone may be enough and the 15# is used only on the head, legs and lines.
Will it fit my clipper?
If the clipper uses the A5 detachable system, yes. Andis AGC series, Oster A5 series, Wahl KM series and A5-compatible Heiniger models are supported. The Oster 76 series and livestock shears are not A5.
Ceramic or stainless steel cutter for the 15#?
Ceramic for clean show coat, long sessions and heat-sensitive horses; stainless steel for coarse or dirty coat, yard conditions and the lowest replacement cost. Both fit the same 15# comb.
Why does my 15# get hotter than my 10#?
It cuts closer, so there is more contact with the skin and less coat to carry heat away. Oil every ten minutes, brush out the comb, use light pressure and let the blade cool between horses. A blunt cutter makes the heat worse because the blade has to be pushed.
Can I use it on a dirty or matted coat?
No. Dirt and sand between comb and skin blunt the cutter quickly, and matted coat pulls rather than cuts. Wash, dry and brush out the coat first; clip out any heavy mat with a coarser blade before going near it with a 15#.
How is the 15# supplied — a blade or a pair?
As a pair: one upper cutter plus one lower comb, packed together as a single piece. The comb is always stainless steel; the cutter is chosen in ceramic or stainless steel.
Can I order private-label packaging?
Yes. Logo on the blade, custom blister card and bulk carton are available. Minimum order is 100 pcs, with artwork approval before production.
Add the close-finishing blade to the range
Ask Ningbo FOLK Tools for a sample, the full A5 length chart and a wholesale quotation for the 15# 1.2 mm pair — stainless steel comb, your choice of ceramic or stainless steel cutter, and your own branding.
Contact Ningbo FOLK Tools →
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